Life in Palermo is intense. People and buildings are tightly crammed into every available space and chaotic markets render the narrow sidewalks impassable. Lush gardens exist along poor narrow streets, and drying laundry resembles the festive banners of a public festivity. Stroll along via Roma up to Corso Vittorio Emanuele, admiring the squares and the exuberant cathedral. The Palazzo dei Normani is an extraordinary fusion of styles, its Byzantine mosaics are a reminder of the city's Golden Age. The ruins of the Church of San Giovanni degli Eremiti stand around the corner, with its pink domes shielding an exotic cloister garden. The National Gallery of Sicily, housed in the Palazzo Abatellis, has a superb collection of paintings and sculpture. In the mornings, don’t miss the massive open-air Capo market. Most of Palermo’s nightlife occurs in the beach district of Mondello. There you can join the strolling crowds of young Italians sampling fish from seaside kitchen stalls and eating gelato.